Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Ode to an Ex-Stranger

April 1st, 2011

When traveling alone, it makes sense to keep up one’s guard — to avoid interacting as freely with strangers as one might do when one is with companions, or in familiar surroundings. This is especially true for a woman traveling solo. Best to evade situations that can bring unwelcome attention or uninvited company.

But meeting people is such a significant element of travel. A person who becomes too guarded can miss out on valuable connections with others — connections that not only enrich the place where you are visiting, but can change your perception, add to your knowledge, leave a lasting impact on your character.

Getting to know the locals, of course, fosters a better understanding of where you are visiting. Equally valuable are fellow travelers who find themselves in the same place and time as you. Through universal human experiences — love, loss, death, humility, gratitude, hopefulness — we find common ground with others, even those who may have had very different backgrounds and life stories than ours. This can nurture the beginning of a good friendship, maybe a great one.

Some places seem to attract people worth knowing. I think Zipolite is one of them. Its locals are warm and open, its beach is magical, and interesting people seem to converge here as a result. When combined, these are great catalysts for making it safe to drop one’s guard; for making it okay, or better, to let oneself become disarmed by a stranger with a disarming smile.

It’s easy to get caught up in the scenery while traveling, and far more difficult to take that leap and make a good friend. But, oh, it’s absolutely worth it.

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So Many Strange Places I’d Like To Be

November 2nd, 2010

It’s my first foray back into travel blogging after an extended absence due to some personal shiz, and I hope you’ll indulge me in a bit of navel gazing, Internets, before we return to our regular routine of pictures and commentary about random places.

Lately I’ve been contemplating the nature of my nomadic lifestyle and the psychology of the rootless existence I’ve been living these past few years. When my Dad died last month, I needed to be around family and stay for a while in the area where I grew up — a touchstone of sorts after losing a major anchor in my life. For as long as I can remember, I’d wanted to see the world, and for most of my adulthood this desire took a backseat to other priorities. When circumstances liberated me from those priorities (not to mention most of my material possessions) I had the opportunity to travel, and I took it. That was four and a half years ago, and since then I have not had the desire nor the inclination to settle back down somewhere. I’ve been adhering to the philosophy that I should follow my gut instincts no matter how bizarre they might seem to myself or others, and my gut has been telling me to keep moving.

Today I flew from Vancouver to San Francisco. As the plane passed over spectacular mountain peaks and valleys, a song popped into my head that sometimes does when I travel. It’s a song I first heard many, many (many many many) years ago, sung by Ernie on Sesame Street, and I loved it then and still do. But for some reason, today, just thinking about it made me teary. Okay, more than teary. Here’s the video with the lyrics:

I’d Like To Visit The Moon

Well I’d like to visit the moon,
on a rocketship high in the air.
Yes, I’d like to visit the moon,
but I don’t think I’d like to live there.
Though I’d like to look down at the earth from above,
I would miss all the places and people I love
So although I might like it for one afternoon,
I don’t want to live on the moon.

I’d like to travel under the sea,
I could meet all the fish everywhere
Yes, I’d travel under the sea,
But I don’t think I’d like to live there.
I might stay for a day there if I had my wish
But there’s not much to do when your friends are all fish,
and an oyster and clam aren’t real family.
I don’t want to live in the sea.

I’d like to visit the jungle, hear the lions roar,
go back in time and meet a dinosaur
There’s so many strange places I’d like to be,
but none of them permanently.

So if I should visit the moon,
I would dance on a moonbeam and then
I will make a wish on a star
and I’ll wish I was home once again.

Though I’d like to look down at the earth from above,
I would miss all the places and people I love
So although I may go,
I’ll be coming home soon
Cause I don’t want to live on the moon.
No, I don’t want to live on the moon.

I have no idea how I should interpret this seemingly out-of-nowhere, weird emotional reaction to this song, but I know I should pay attention.
All will be revealed.

“There’s so many strange places I’d like to be, but none of them permanently …”

A Traveler’s Farewell

September 16th, 2010

I haven’t posted anything here for more than a month, due to a really jarring loss in my family and in my life: that of my father, Jules Loh.

For those of you who don’t know him, this Associated Press obituary will tell you quite a bit about Dad and his remarkable life. It’s a lovely article that focuses on my dad’s influence in his field of journalism. I am privileged to have had his lifelong influence as a father.

Growing up, I thought Dad had the coolest job in the world, traveling nonstop and writing colorful prose about what he found. It didn’t occur to me to dislike his frequent absences from home, because he always came back with interesting stories, artifacts and influences from the places he’d seen and the people he’d met. And even though he’d hint about long, decidedly non-glamorous hours spent in airports, on planes, driving rental cars and staying in hotels  — that down side of constant travel didn’t seem all that bad to me, and I guess it never has.

Dad said you could often figure out everything you needed to know about a person or place simply by noticing the details. His favorite example of this was a sign he saw once in a North Dakota hotel lobby: DON’T GUT YOUR DEER IN THE BATHTUB.

My resulting over-attention to detail has probably made me too observant for my own good at times, but when faced with strangers in a strange land, it has never failed me.

That’s just one of the countless things he’s taught me, and it has helped me so much in my life. I’m going to miss him always.

A Little Bit of London/ African Arrival

June 18th, 2010

I had a great two days in London prior to jetting out early this morning; wish I could have stayed a bit longer since I didn’t get to do all the touristy sightseeing stuff I craved. I do have a few days when I get back and won’t have to run around getting things I need for Africa, which is how I spent the majority of the past two days in London.

I got to see Macbeth at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre fresh off my flight, and felt genuinely thrilled to be there after having studied/ read about the Globe all these years. It wasn’t ideal having my big overstuffed backpack and daypack with me in the narrow 17th-century bench seating as I did, but the gorgeous sunny day and amazing performances, and the smoking hotness of the actor who played Macbeth, and the lovely Pimm’s lemonade to which my lovely English friend Dani introduced me, countered the awkwardness of lugging five weeks’ worth of backpacking around the historic and crowded theatre. Afterwards we did a bit of walking around the Millennium Bridge area; I spotted the Gherkin Building which I’ve only seen in pictures and think is incredibly cool; and experienced my first English pub (Swiss Cottage Pub, across from my friend Serena’s flat where I stayed), ate my first real English pub food (bangers and mash), and caught up with some awesome friends over Samuel Smith beers.

The next day found me strangely still un-jet-lagged and ready to hit sunny London again. It involved lots of shopping around Oxford Street where Dani and I stumbled on an amazing sale at Selfridge’s and I bought clothes and shoes very much for after Africa. Picked up other odds and ends we needed … mosquito nets, water purification tablets and things of that nature … before heading out to meet up with Nick, a cool Londoner that Dani and I had met in Thailand a couple of years ago. More beers, more Pimm’s, more English pub food and some World Cup action, France vs. Mexico (olé!). Got back to Serena’s, did a final packing and a little sleep before heading out early in the morning for the airport.

Now we’re on Kenya Airways about to land in Nairobi and transfer flights to Entebbe, Uganda. More later, gotta turn off electronic devices.

In the Jomo Kenyatta Airport, Nairobi
This is a typical hot and humid developing-nation airport with one long corridor along which all the gates are lined up; in between them are duty-free shops with all the foreign chocolates and perfumes and liquor and cigarettes; tiny bookstores selling Lonely Planet guides and Internet access for $4 per 25-minute session; small canteens selling sandwiches, meat pies, chips, beer, soda and bottled water; souvenir shops filled with kente cloth garments, native jewelry, and wood carvings of African animals and tribal busts.

The people milling around, bunched along the corridor outside their gates in plastic chairs or (more commonly) on the floor, are a true mix of cultures, with more Westerners than I had predicted there would be. Most of them seem to be with volunteer or church groups, and all ages and a lot of nationalities appear to be represented. There are tons of adorable babies and children of all races, and lots of travelers meeting and chatting over beers and communal electrical outlets. It’s a very congenial place. English has been spoken quite fluently in the airport, but I’m predicting that will change once we hit Uganda.

I have to say the Kenyan people as a whole are a damn good-looking bunch — really dramatic bone structure, gorgeous smooth dark skin, dazzling smiles which they flash often. In the planes and airport they’ve blasted upbeat African music and the Kenya Airways crew are all wearing soccer-ball shirts in celebration of the World Cup being played right now in South Africa (though Kenya doesn’t have a team). The pilots give World Cup game updates during the flights. All in all I am very much liking this vibe.

Dani, Serena and I are now on a quick hop to Entebbe, Uganda where we will find accommodations after we land at midnight … our trip-planning skills have been, to put it mildly, wanting. (Two of our three flights today involved the airline staff paging us from the gate to warn us to get our asses on the plane or be left behind.) My travel snafus so far include being unable to find a camera cord for my iPad in both California and London, so I’m not sure how many pictures, if any, I’ll be able to post from the road. And I just re-injured a nasty back muscle pull that I developed last week … it had almost fully healed when I strained it again while giving the bathroom door a firm push on the middle flight from Paris to Nairobi. I heard a soft clunk before I felt a sharp, stabbing pain and now I’m back to square one with it. Not the type of injury one wants to have when one is lugging a heavy backpack and daypack around a foreign continent … but I’ve got no choice but to soldier on, riding on Tylenol and yoga stretches. Between my back injury and Serena’s chronic headache problem we’re gonna be like two cranky old ladies hobbling along and bitching about our aches and pains. I really hope we find a place tonight with a decent mattress because my “sleep anywhere” superpower is sure to be severely tested.

On to Uganda …

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So Long, U.S.A.

June 15th, 2010

… for now, anyway. I leave tomorrow for a quick hop to London and then Uganda. I’ve been living the mantra “be here now” which is why I’m this unprepared for my trip … too much basking in California sun and not enough indoor preparation. But. It’ll get done, it always does.

I’m not even thinking too far ahead to Uganda … I have a couple of days in London to look forward to. I’ve been wanting to go to London since I was three years old and my dad read me the stories of A.A. Milne … the original Winnie-the-Pooh, not Disney-the-Pooh but the real deal with clever rhymes and stories. “They’re changing guard at Buckingham Palace/ Christopher Robin went down with Alice … ”

That’s tomorrow. Now I’ve gotta pack. I’m about 3/4 of the way there, and took a break to test this WordPress app for my new iPad. I’m going to be leaving the laptop at home and will be Pad-dependent for five weeks (ew, that sounds like a horrible hygiene issue), let’s see how this works.

London, I can’t wait till we meet.

The Lost Argentine Diaries Part 5: Glacier Photo Edition

June 8th, 2010

A few photos of the glaciers at El Calafate, Argentina. Taken in May 2007. Waayback.

BOOKED.

May 21st, 2010

I am notorious for being unprepared for major international trips and this one may blow my previous  records out of the water.

I leave in less than a month and have to … first, sort out what vaccinations I will need. I’m going to make an appointment for early next week at the San Francisco Department of Public Health Travel Clinic. From the prices listed online, the shots are much cheaper than in a private travel clinic, and I’ve heard good things about them through word of mouth.

I also have to get a Kenya visa — have to send my passport to the Kenyan consulate in L.A. for that, and I’d do it immediately IF I weren’t waiting on my passport to get back to me from Pennsylvania, where I mailed it last week to get extra visa pages attached because I FILLED THEM ALL UP since 2006. Woop woop! for that, but Boooo! for having to wait on the fed’ral gummint to return my freaking passport. How long is that gonna take?

We’ll see how this all shakes out; it won’t be the first time I’ve cut necessary trip preparations ridiculously close to the deadline and it’s a safe bet it won’t be the last.

BOOKED, though. Yeah. YEAH.

Today’s Dilemma

May 14th, 2010

There or here?

Far or near?

Stay or go?

The Lost Argentine Diaries, Part 2

May 7th, 2010

Transporting back into Argentina circa almost-exactly-three-years-ago …

, 2007

I have gravitated toward this international hippie neighborhood in Buenos Aires called San Telmo. It’s a network of old narrow cobblestone streets and ornately scrolled buildings with little terraces everywhere, decadent but still ghetto enough to legitimately call it bohemian.

Today was a national holiday, Argentina’s version of Labor Day, so all businesses were closed and folks were out partying pretty hard. There was a big drumming street party out in the square in San Telmo, with about 20 serious drummers who knew how to play and a huge cluster of people dancing around… they slowly wound their way through the streets and stopped in front of a truly fabulous v. old Gothic cathedral. Starry night, full moon, faded decadence, lots of musicians, artists, tango dancers. It’s what I imagine New Orleans’ French Quarter was like, back in the day, when interesting people could still afford to live there.

Next I go to Patagonia and see some more really, really intensely cool shit. How lucky I am, how lucky I am, how luckeeeeee I ammmmm.


The Lost Argentine Diaries, Part 1

May 5th, 2010

We’ve been rather California-heavy here at the lohdown in the past few weeks — and I’m still too sad over the Gulf of Mexico oil spill to write anything fun anyway — so we’re gonna go back in time a few years. To 2007, to be exact, when our intrepid heroine spent a fantastic and way-too-short three months in Argentina. I dug up some of my scribblings from back then — I’d forgotten about most of them — and will post them here.

My camera broke while I was there, so photos are tragically few. But let me assure you: it’s beautiful, y’all. Me encanta Argentina.

Here is the first email I sent home to family and friends after arriving in Buenos Aires (in Argentina-flag blue) …

, 2007

In the spirit of emulating how I must sound to Argentines when I speak in Spanish, I have run the following through an online translator into Spanish and back into English …


Hello each one! I have been in Buenos Aires during lightly more than one week now and while my Spanish remains abysmal, I have noticed a minor progress of my aptitude to remember words and phrases, and understanding what is the above mentioned to me. I do not have many news of excitement to do a report. I have spent most of my time helping my friends to obtain their matter ready to move in their new house and they should be completely moved in before the way of the week.

Till now I have been remaining in a hotel in the neighborhood of Palermo of Buenos Aires that is the bucket of enthusiasm. There is amusing life at night, many agreeable parks and nice buildings, etc. The climate could not be more perfect and the people of Buenos Aires are very friendly and very patient with my slaughter of their language. I have met some friends of friends from England and we had a big time exploring the bars and clubs of Buenos Aires.


It is interesting to see the people smoking everywhere – the sight of the people within centers of shopping with cigarettes lit in the hand is quite habitual. Buenos Aires is in the process of rules imposing who smoke, nevertheless, meaning that the people will have to go to areas designated to smoke. Then this will turn into really the city of the Good Air. Also, it seems that each person has companion dogs; they take them everywhere, and you see tons of walkers of the dog with 8 to 12 dogs simultaneously, throughout of the city. The general routine here is the ideal one for me – the people wake up late, take siestas and then go out in the city much late; it is quite habitual for the people to leave for the night at 1 a.m. and not to return to the house up to 5 or 6 a.m. This city remembers me of New Orleans from many points of view. The American dollar goes completely far here and to buy items / eat for dinner is fantastic. No complaints by no means.

My projects are to walk in Buenos Aires for the following couple of weeks and then to spread myself to other parts of the continent. I am not sure exactly where I am still going to be, I will explain all of you when I fix myself.

Salud,

eeeeeeeeeeeee

Traigos en Buenos Aires