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30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 3: 21-30

August 3rd, 2012

Previous entry: 30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 2: 11-20

And without further ado, may I present the last (but certainly not least) of my Lima List …

21. Barranco District — It’s the city’s “bohemian center,” where many of Peru’s foremost artists, musicians and writers have lived and worked. Highlights are a kick-ass cathedral, gorgeous library, lots of cool restaurants and bars, a great view of the ocean, and the Puente de los Suspiros. This is the Bridge of Sighs — legend has it that a wealthy man’s daughter stood there every day, watching for her true love, a street sweeper she was not allowed to marry — and from the bridge, you can still hear her forlorn sighs.

Oh yeah, and there’s a Starbucks, too.

Statue of singer Chabuca Granda in Barranco

22. The “Ceviche Roll” at Zen — This sushi bar is among the best in Lima with chic minimalist decor to match the sophisticated simplicity of the sushi and sashimi. My favorite was a Japanese-Peruvian hybrid roll (Japaruvian?) called the Ceviche Roll: a citrusy cured whitefish roll with tons of kick.

23. Magic Water Circuit (Circuito Magico del Agua) — Kids of all ages (and I do mean ALL) can splash around in this circuit of 13 fountains, lit with flashing lights and lasers set to music. Daytime, nighttime — it’s always good. Just watching the show is fun, and so fabulous to be able to give into your desire to jump in and play.

24. Really Good-Looking Men— This is a notable part of the nightlife (and daylife) in Lima.

25. Maracuya — Right right right, this sweet-and-sour passionfruit is not limited to Lima — and it’s really only pulp, so it’s hard to eat as a fruit. But it is truly mouthwatering as a juice or smoothie, and as an ingredient in all sort of cocktail and food recipes — Maracuya Sours, cheesecakes, smoothies, ceviche.

Maracuya Sour!

25. Architecture — Sleek and modern blends in with centuries-old buildings designed from global influences — Spanish, Moorish, Creole, French, Andalusian, Colonial. I’m a sucker for old-meets-new architecture styles, and Lima has a 21st-century skyline that over gorgeously restored classic buildings. These include the Parisian-styled Central Post Office (Casa de Correos y Telegrafos), Colonial-influenced Municipal Palace (Palacio Municipal), and Colonial-styled Torre Tagle Palace (Palacio Torre Tagle, considered one of the most magnificent buildings in South America).

26. Peruvian Pink Salt — This pretty pink salt is harvested from an underground ocean deep in the Andes. It has a flavorful, hearty taste, loud crunch, and high content of trace minerals including iron. It’s tasty and aesthetically pleasing, and said to ward off infections better than regular salt, and to provide health benefits for people with anemia, arthritis, and other maladies. Lima’s not the only place in Peru (or the world, for that matter) to feature pink salt, but probably the city where it’s most likely you’ll find some on the table without having to ask for it.

27. Birds, Birds, Birds — Peru has more bird species than all of North America and Europe combined, and for that reason, Lima is a very birdy city. Around the streets and beaches of Lima you’ll see dozens and dozens of species: beach birds, coastal marsh birds, garden birds, seabirds — loud and colorful and usually squacking.

Pelican!

28. San Isidro — More trendy than Barranco, more sedate than Miraflores, the San Isidro neighborhood has a great balance of fun and scenery, upscale shops, bars, art galleries, beer gardens, and restaurants. It’s the financial center of Lima so is a bit stuffy, but offset by great shopping, dining, and lovely sculptures and fountains dotting the streets.

29. Delfines Hotel and Casino —This could be the only hotel in South America (or, hell, the world) whose main attraction is dolphins frolicking in a big indoor pool. Before any animal activists start to get all huffy: the hotel sponsors a dolphin research center; the critters are kept in pristine conditions, and guests can help caretakers at feeding and play time. You don’t have to stay in the hotel to check out the dolphins, but with all the luxury amenities you’d find at any modern five-star hotel, it’s not a bad idea.

30. Gorgeous Men — Have I mentioned them?

… And Three Things I Don’t (Part Three)

3. Inka Cola — I can just feel the wrath of my Peruvian friends as I dis their beloved national soft drink: they grew up with it, and still drink it today. As a kid I, too, would’ve loved this lurid yellow soda that tastes like bubblegum. But Adult Eileen finds it way too damn sweet. Inka Zero, the diet version, is much more palatable to me, but that shizz ain’t so easy to find, even in Lima.

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30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 2: 11-20

May 10th, 2012

Previous entry: 30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 1: 1-10

Well, I got thrown off by the Jazz and Heritage Festival in New Orleans … so now I will continue my list of badass features in and around the city where I hung out prior to arriving in the Big Easy. Here are 10 more things I love about Lima (and one that I don’t) …

11. Ristorante Huaca Pucllana — Some restaurants have fountains, aquariums or lovely artwork for decór, but I bet this is the only restaurant in the world with genuine ruins from the Inca empire as a design feature. Take a date for cocktails on the terrace as you overlook the Huaca Pucllana ruins, looking lovely at night in a romantic warm glow.

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12. Miraflores — This oceanside neighborhood in Lima has upscale shopping, sleek buildings and architecture, and fine dining. Its coast-hugging roadway, Circuita de Playas, has giant, beautiful sculpture fountains on one side, and the shoreline on the other.

13. Cancha — The big fat kernels of corn that grow here are called maiz cancha chulpe and anchor the majority of Peruvian dishes, but when toasted and sprinkled with sea salt, make an excellent bar munchy or mid-afternoon/ late-night snack. You’ll find them sprinkled alongside especially juicy meals to soak up the liquids, but I like them best when served plain and with a cold beer.

14. Hot Men — They live here and visit here.

15. Beaches — Lima is spread out along a scenic stretch of Pacific coastline, and within the city limits are beaches where surfers, sailors, parasailers, and sun worshippers flock. To the south and north of Lima are fun beach towns of all stripes, many of them quite posh. Whether you want to wear flip-flops or Jimmy Choos to dinner, you can find your ideal beach.

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16. Good shopping — Lima has all the imported clothes, perfumes, electronics and other goodies you’d find in any sophisticated world city, plus handcrafted Andean gifts made with Peruvian textiles and materials that cost a fortune elsewhere. There are also traditional marketplaces to go and get get your haggle on. Lima is one of very few cities in all of South America with Apple computer repair and maintenance (I type as I give Buenos Aires the side-eye).

17. Parks and greenery — Sure, lots of cities have parks, and I rank Lima up there with the likes of London and New York for its many well-groomed, well-maintained, well-lit public green spaces. They have outdoor workout stations, amphitheaters and stages, sculptures, fountains, and gardens. I loved Parque Mariscal Castilla, with all the above features, in the San Isidro neighborhood.

18. Outdoor water features — I don’t know if Lima has more waterfalls, fountains and other outdoor water features than most other cities, but they seem to be everywhere, gushing generous cascades of water.

19. Hot Men — I’m not sure if I mentioned this.

20. TipTop Cafe — I can hear the collective groan from the foodies in Lima as I single out this one eatery (an American-style diner and takeout joint) but hear me out. A city can have a wealth of stellar chefs and restaurants — and Lima does — but a truly great culinary city has good cheap takeout that’s not a fast-food chain. Enter TipTop, where Peruvian and American comfort food come together in a greasy love nest of salchipapas and hamburgers and chocolate-dipped ice cream cones. AND AND AND they deliver.

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… And Three Things I Don’t (Part Two)

2. Coffee — Some of the finest coffee beans on the planet grow in the mountains of Perú and are shipped off to pretentious coffee shops the world over, but you’d never know it when you visit. The vast majority of restaurants, cafes and even coffee shops (Starbucks, I am looking at you) serve freeze-dried instant coffee. In most countries this is an affront, but in a country that produces truly great coffee, it is practically a crime.

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30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 1: 1-10

April 20th, 2012

1. Amazing Culinary Scene. Perú’s capital city is a booming gastronomic hub with fabulous eateries of all genres. A variety of fresh ripe seasonal ingredients — from nearby jungles, forests, mountains, waterways, and ocean — are used in creative, classic, and clever ways. From cafés serving “peasant food” (comida de campesinos) to Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s possible to get a memorable meal in Lima no matter how many soles you have in your pocket.

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2. Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas). Lima’s majestic main plaza boasts the Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral of Lima and Archbishop’s Palace, and stately Spanish Colonial buildings housing museums and municipal buildings. Chill on one of about 50 marble benches scattered around the lush fountains, statues, flower beds and lawns.
3. Good-Looking Guys.This is self-explanatory.
4. Pisco Cocktails. Perú’s signature liquor is Pisco, a strong brandy of muscat grapes. The national cocktail is the Pisco Sour, made from limes, beaten egg whites, simple syrup, and bitters (and invented, curiously, by a gringo). As good as a Pisco Sour is, don’t hesitate to try Pisco in other boozily effective forms, such as Pisco and sweet-tart maracuyá juice, chilcano de Pisco (Pisco with ginger ale and lime juice, both shown below), or the innocently lethal Pisco Punch.

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5. The Pisco Sour Trifecta. On that note, cocktail aficionados will want to visit a threesome of bars said to serve the best Pisco Sours in Lima. Go to the swank Hotels Bolivar, Maury, and Country Club Lima to taste the difference between a good Pisco Sour and a great one.
6. Dudo, or “Peruvian Liar Dice,” is a drinking game said to have been invented by the Inca and taught to Spanish conquistadors when they arrived. I have to doubt that, because if so, the Spanish would have been way too wasted to conquer anyone. Whatever its origins, this is a game of bluffing, educated guessing, and reading other players — simple to learn, but difficult to master.
7. Sunsets. Settled as it is on the Pacific, Lima has some damned impressive puestas del sol (at least in the summer months, clear of fog). The sun sinking behind Isla San Lorenzo shoots a zillion colors across the sky and bathes the city in a dreamy glow.

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8. Se Habla Ingles. It seems most of Lima’s population can speak at least some English — not just professionals and scholars, but shop clerks, taxi drivers, and bathroom attendants too. This had a down side for me, as it became tough to improve my Spanish when everyone wanted to practice their English with me.
9. Sauces! From the tongue-blistering salsa de rocoto (hot pepper sauce) to the creamy, tangy salsa de Huancaina, to salsa Criolla (onion-chili relish) … Peruvians know how to dunk and smother their food. My favorite is aji, a popular yellow chili sauce that ranges from mildly to suicidally spicy, and could make an old running shoe taste good.

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10. Attractive Men. … You know what I’m talking about.

    … and 3 Things I Don’t (Part One)

Straight Pisco. With all the raving I just did about Pisco, it’s probably surprising to see this here, but straight-up Pisco, to me, invokes the flavors of nail polish remover with undertones of pesticide. I say this knowing full well that in the past decade Pisco has become more sophisticated, and elegant, and artisanal, and sought after, and bla, bla, blaaaa … I will happily drink Pisco mixed with something else and love it, but leave the shot glasses on the shelf please.

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Some Awesome Things About Oaxaca (Mostly Involving Food)

March 18th, 2011

The first and most obvious awesome thing about Oaxaca is, obviously, its name. First there is the spelling. This word brazenly opens with double vowels and then — BAM! an X! — followed by another vowel! You don’t get to a normal consonant until the third syllable. And THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is nomenclature that brings all the wordsmiths to the yard.

Wah Hah Cah. WaHokka. WHA-HOCK-A

As if that were not enough, let us consider the pronunciation: wah-ha-ca. Wa ha ca. WAHACKA. Close enough to “wacky” or the Pac-Man/ Fozzie Bear sound wocka wocka wocka to suggest that zany, madcap stuff is happening here all the time.

.. but sometimes it is!

Fabulous name aside, let us move on to the actual things about Oaxaca that are great. This region of Mexico is known for its food, and I have quickly become a huge fan of two of its best known food products: Oaxaca farmers’ cheese, and molé.

Oaxaca farmer’s cheese is a staple food item: a humble, yet delicious semi-soft cows’ milk cheese similar to mozzarella. It melts like a dream and has a light, buttery, pleasingly salty taste. When grated, it takes on an airy, fluffy texture that is reminiscent of a mild feta. One of the cheapest (yet incredibly satisfying) items on any menu is a plain quesadilla with just two ingredients: long, stretchy strings of melted Oaxaca cheese folded into a fire-toasted tortilla. No spices, oils, condiments, or anything else to muck it up.

Enchiladas verde and Oaxaca cheese.

Cheese enchilada with scrambled eggs, tomato sauce and shredded Oaxaca cheese

Then there’s molé, a broad name for any number of regional sauces that use various chili peppers and, often, chocolate. Every restaurant has its own versions of molé, and the ones I have sampled in Oaxaca, especially the chocolate versions, are a bit more smoky than those I’ve tried before. In some instances the smokiness takes on a slightly burnt-chocolate flavor. At first taste I found this to be strong, bordering on off-putting, but by the time I was a third of the way through the meal I had become a total convert. Hereafter, I’m going to be disappointed if I don’t get that bit of burnt-smokiness in a molé dish.

Chicken enchiladas with molé and, hello again, delicious cheese.

I’ve grown to love the super spicy salsas that are standard features on every restaurant table. As a precursor to a meal, the diner is presented with a basket of bread rolls with one or more types of pepper salsa as the only accompaniment. Some Westernized restaurants include butter as a concession, but most come with nothing more than bowls of salsa, made from lava-hot insanity peppers that strike fear into the taste buds of the most die-hard fans of culinary heat. But, a dollop of salsa on the bread is the perfect way to appreciate the nuances of the pepper flavors. The bread cuts the sting of the spice just enough to let the palate open up to all the peppery tastes without actually blistering your mouth. Once again, I’m a convert.

Do not let the innocent appearance of this salsa fool you. The spice content in this little bowl could ruin lives.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the ingredients: everything in this region is so fresh and tasty, and as a result, people keep recipes very simple and let the ingredients speak for themselves. Tacos are not the crunchy, overstuffed affairs you find in Mexican restaurants outside Mexico …here, you get a warm rolled-up tortilla with sauced-up meats on the inside. Piled high on the tacos (or placed on the side) are the veggies, cheese and creamy black beans.

A perfect plate of chicken tacos.

Let’s move on to some non-food items: I love the plazas that are scattered throughout the city of Oaxaca. These central town squares are lively, pretty, interesting, and fun, and ideal for people watching.

Plaza de la Constitución, or "El Zócalo." Another great word. ZOH CA LOH.

Political protests in the plaza.

Oaxaca de Juárez is a very old city that has preserved a lot of its indigenous structures as well as colonial-era architecture. There are amazing cathedrals and churches all over the city, each one older and grander than the next.

Just another old, spectacular church in the city center.

Just another old, spectacular church in Oaxaca.

I love the double bell tower on this one.

Okay, this one is not native to Oaxaca, but you can drink Duff Beer here! Yes, the favorite brew of Homer Simpson can be found all over Mexico and other parts of the world. Oaxaca happens to be the first place I saw it. The creators of The Simpsons might not be on board with this — in fact, they sued a similar enterprise in Australia — so I don’t know how much longer we’re going to be able to enjoy the beer “brewed from hops, barley, and sparkling clear mountain goat.” So I should enjoy it while I can, no?

Are you ready to get DUFFED?

I guess that last one was technically a food item. Next post, I’ll pry myself away from the tasty goodies and move onto some sights and sounds, I swear.

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Posted in Fooooooooood., Mexico, North America, Oaxaca, Travels

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NYC: Stellar Bites – Lombardi’s Pizzeria and Rice to Riches

January 6th, 2011

Sometimes the tourists get it right. Case in point: the historic Lombardi’s Original Pizza of New York. Billed as “America’s first pizzeria,” it occupies a top spot in the pizza-snobbish Big Apple, its praises sung by Zagat’s and every tourist rag from Travel + Leisure to Lonely Planet . As a result, it’s crawling with out-of-towners, which normally would make me flee, flee, flee. If you share that instinct, though, ignore it and brave the tourist hordes for a damn good pizza pie.

The secret is Lombardi’s thin hand-tossed crust, baked to crispy perfection in white-tiled charcoal ovens. These antiquated ovens are no longer allowed in NYC — one great excuse to visit this throwback to 1905. The crust is a testament to the difference a pizza oven can make: thin enough to render a satisfying crunch, strong enough to support fresh mozzarella, juicy tomatoes, charred pepperoni rounds cupping hot little pools of oil, or whatever other classic toppings you pick. The outer rim is crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside, and just dense enough to soak up all the pizza’s juices and oils. Get the original “margherita” (mozzarella, tomato sauce, fresh basil and romano), add your toppings, and wash it down with a pitcher of cold Brooklyn Lager.

Large margherita with tomatoes, spinach & wild mushrooms

At the edge of Little Italy in the fun Nolita neighborhood, Lombardi’s has an old-school Italian ambiance with checkered tablecloths, vintage Italian movie posters, and Sinatra crooning over the speakers. The restaurant is a labyrinth of small dining rooms upstairs and down, some of which require a trip through the busy kitchen to get to your table. Expect to drop between $25 and $35 per person if you order beer or wine.

Leave room for dessert, because when you stagger through the front doors of Lombardi’s and across narrow Spring Street, you’ll run into Rice to Riches, a flamboyant rice-pudding bar with a 1960s futuristic go-go flair and unapologetic pro-dessert stance. With at least a dozen daily flavors of rice pudding (try Butterscotch Boulevard, Almond Shmalmond, or Panna Cotta) and toppings (like espresso crumble, toasted coconut, or jelly), it’s classic comfort food disguised as an über-hip dish. This is the treat that appeals to my inner 6-year-old: sweet, creamy, compellingly lumpy and able to be eaten at the Jetsons’ kitchen table. Portions range from $6.50 per solo portion to $35 for the Moby (serves 10).

Long counter for puddings and toppings to the right,

futuristic seating all around.

Hee!

Click below for more reviews of Lombardi’s Pizza and Rice to Riches:

Lombardi's Pizza on Urbanspoon
Rice To Riches on Urbanspoon

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Posted in Fooooooooood., USA: New York City

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San Francisco: More Goodies from the Ferry Building

August 4th, 2010

It’s a little disconcerting to be posting so much Africa stuff when I’m so far away from there* … and back in San Francisco … so here are some snaps taken locally. One of my favorite places in any city, anywhere, is the Ferry Building, where organic meets om-nom-nom.

* But there are more Africa photos in the hopper, and they will be posted in the near future. Woop woop!

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The Best Six Things From In -N- Out Burger’s Secret Menu

April 11th, 2010

In many ways, California is a big insider’s club, as reflected by the “secret menu” at In-N-Out Burger. Here are the top six “secret menu” items … with a couple you don’t see on the In-N-Out Web site. :)

ANIMAL STYLE Burger/Fries — “Animal Style” means a mustard-grilled beef patty, covered in their secret sauce (kind of like a less tangy, more savory Thousand Island), grilled diced onions and extra pickles.

Animal-style cheeseburger.

NEAPOLITAN SHAKE — The thick, creamy chocolate, vanilla and strawberry shakes, offered separately on the menu, are layered together.

PROTEIN BURGER — Any regular burger on the menu is wrapped in a lettuce leaf, Atkins/ Asian-style.

GRILLED CHEESE — Cheese alone, sans burger, on a toasted bun and with any of the fixins.

FOUR BY FOUR — This is a jumbo burger of four beef patties, four cheese. At this volume of food consumption I’m not sure why you wouldn’t just get two double-doubles … less bread, I guess … but the point is, the choice is yours.

FREE STICKERS — When you order, tell them whether you want drive-thru-based fun stickers or an In-N-Out bumper sticker for your car, and you’ll get one free of charge.

Road and auto love in sticker form.

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Posted in Fooooooooood., USA: California

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Cowgirl Creamery – Petaluma Creamery Tour

April 6th, 2010

Last week I had the pleasure of an inside peek at Cowgirl Creamery’s cheesemaking operation on First Street in Petaluma. The original creamery is located in Point Reyes, but high demand for the drool-inducing Cowgirl cheese compelled them to open up another creamery in 2008. When I dropped in last week, they were making their newest year-round cheese, Wagon Wheel, and their seasonal spring cheese, St Pat.

Here are some snaps of the Cowgirls’ creamery on the banks of the Petaluma River, plus a few shots of the finished products and of the Cowgirls, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, guest stars at the recent California Artisan Cheese Festival.

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Posted in Fooooooooood., Photo Galleries, Sonoma County, USA: California

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Ferry Building – Farmers’ Market

March 19th, 2010

While we’re in a Ferry Building state of mind, here are some recent snaps. If you didn’t know already, San Francisco’s Ferry Building is home to one of the world’s biggest urban farmer’s markets. Farms from all over the Bay Area show up 3 days a week with organic fruits, veggies and all sorts of awesome products made from them.

Most of these were taken during the Saturday farmers’ market.

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Five Delicious Finds in the Ferry Building

March 17th, 2010

If you’re visiting San Francisco, make sure you bring your appetite to its downtown gourmet hub, the Ferry Building. Here are some tasty treats you won’t regret checking out once you get there:

Fried foods-to-go at Delica. This fabulous Japanese deli serves yummy bento boxes and à la carte items, including kaki-age tempura, shrimp cake and potato croquette, fried to a perfect light crunch. My favorite is the kaki-age tempura, a haystack of veggies (burdock, carrots, onions and edamame) and shrimp in a light tempura coating.

Kaki-age Tempura



Mt. Tam triple-cream cheese from Cowgirl Creamery. Even if my cousin weren’t the fabulous Cowgirl herself, Sue Conley, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention their award-winning organic triple-cream Brie. It’s incredibly versatile, pairing well with many varietals of wine — its light, nutty, buttery taste and texture goes beautifully with white wines while its earthiness and depth of flavor pairs nicely with red. I love Mt. Tam with fresh fruit, fruit preserves and hearty wheat or olive-oil crackers. I always thought I could never get tired of Mt. Tam, and lately — having much greater access to cousin Sue — I’ve been testing that theory and have found so far that I’m right.

Mt. Tam cheese. OM NOM NOM




McEvoy Farms Extra Virgin Olive Oil. I love how light, yet rich and complex is this olive oil, which has strong green undertones that connect well with fresh herbs. I’ve been lucky enough to see and smell the olive trees lining the gorgeous, rolling hills of the McEvoy Ranch just north of San Francisco, and I’m angling for a tour of the place when springtime is in full swing. I’ll keep you posted.

McEvoy olives and olive oil. Photo by Slow Family Online



Béquet Sea Salt Caramels. The Farm Fresh to You store sells these (along with other drool-inducing impulse buys) in bins for 50 cents apiece at the checkout counter. Don’t miss the Celtic Sea Salt and Salt Chocolate caramel chews — silken, buttery caramels punctuated with bursts of salty crunch. The seductive texture and flavor combination will forever make unsalted caramel seem so blah.

When it comes to caramel, sea-salted is the way to go.




Tartlettes from Frog Hollow Farm. Fruit as at the heart of everything Frog Hollow Farm does, and fresh seasonal preserves go into these light, tart, sweet fresh-baked pastries. These tartlettes are pretty ideal at any time of the day — for breakfast with coffee, for dessert with crème fraîche, or at wine tastings topped with a slice of Mt. Tam cheese (above).

Cherry Tartlettes, OMG, perfect.

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