Posts Tagged ‘Lima’

30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 3: 21-30

August 3rd, 2012

Previous entry: 30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 2: 11-20

And without further ado, may I present the last (but certainly not least) of my Lima List …

21. Barranco District — It’s the city’s “bohemian center,” where many of Peru’s foremost artists, musicians and writers have lived and worked. Highlights are a kick-ass cathedral, gorgeous library, lots of cool restaurants and bars, a great view of the ocean, and the Puente de los Suspiros. This is the Bridge of Sighs — legend has it that a wealthy man’s daughter stood there every day, watching for her true love, a street sweeper she was not allowed to marry — and from the bridge, you can still hear her forlorn sighs.

Oh yeah, and there’s a Starbucks, too.

Statue of singer Chabuca Granda in Barranco

22. The “Ceviche Roll” at Zen — This sushi bar is among the best in Lima with chic minimalist decor to match the sophisticated simplicity of the sushi and sashimi. My favorite was a Japanese-Peruvian hybrid roll (Japaruvian?) called the Ceviche Roll: a citrusy cured whitefish roll with tons of kick.

23. Magic Water Circuit (Circuito Magico del Agua) — Kids of all ages (and I do mean ALL) can splash around in this circuit of 13 fountains, lit with flashing lights and lasers set to music. Daytime, nighttime — it’s always good. Just watching the show is fun, and so fabulous to be able to give into your desire to jump in and play.

24. Really Good-Looking Men— This is a notable part of the nightlife (and daylife) in Lima.

25. Maracuya — Right right right, this sweet-and-sour passionfruit is not limited to Lima — and it’s really only pulp, so it’s hard to eat as a fruit. But it is truly mouthwatering as a juice or smoothie, and as an ingredient in all sort of cocktail and food recipes — Maracuya Sours, cheesecakes, smoothies, ceviche.

Maracuya Sour!

25. Architecture — Sleek and modern blends in with centuries-old buildings designed from global influences — Spanish, Moorish, Creole, French, Andalusian, Colonial. I’m a sucker for old-meets-new architecture styles, and Lima has a 21st-century skyline that over gorgeously restored classic buildings. These include the Parisian-styled Central Post Office (Casa de Correos y Telegrafos), Colonial-influenced Municipal Palace (Palacio Municipal), and Colonial-styled Torre Tagle Palace (Palacio Torre Tagle, considered one of the most magnificent buildings in South America).

26. Peruvian Pink Salt — This pretty pink salt is harvested from an underground ocean deep in the Andes. It has a flavorful, hearty taste, loud crunch, and high content of trace minerals including iron. It’s tasty and aesthetically pleasing, and said to ward off infections better than regular salt, and to provide health benefits for people with anemia, arthritis, and other maladies. Lima’s not the only place in Peru (or the world, for that matter) to feature pink salt, but probably the city where it’s most likely you’ll find some on the table without having to ask for it.

27. Birds, Birds, Birds — Peru has more bird species than all of North America and Europe combined, and for that reason, Lima is a very birdy city. Around the streets and beaches of Lima you’ll see dozens and dozens of species: beach birds, coastal marsh birds, garden birds, seabirds — loud and colorful and usually squacking.

Pelican!

28. San Isidro — More trendy than Barranco, more sedate than Miraflores, the San Isidro neighborhood has a great balance of fun and scenery, upscale shops, bars, art galleries, beer gardens, and restaurants. It’s the financial center of Lima so is a bit stuffy, but offset by great shopping, dining, and lovely sculptures and fountains dotting the streets.

29. Delfines Hotel and Casino —This could be the only hotel in South America (or, hell, the world) whose main attraction is dolphins frolicking in a big indoor pool. Before any animal activists start to get all huffy: the hotel sponsors a dolphin research center; the critters are kept in pristine conditions, and guests can help caretakers at feeding and play time. You don’t have to stay in the hotel to check out the dolphins, but with all the luxury amenities you’d find at any modern five-star hotel, it’s not a bad idea.

30. Gorgeous Men — Have I mentioned them?

… And Three Things I Don’t (Part Three)

3. Inka Cola — I can just feel the wrath of my Peruvian friends as I dis their beloved national soft drink: they grew up with it, and still drink it today. As a kid I, too, would’ve loved this lurid yellow soda that tastes like bubblegum. But Adult Eileen finds it way too damn sweet. Inka Zero, the diet version, is much more palatable to me, but that shizz ain’t so easy to find, even in Lima.

30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 2: 11-20

May 10th, 2012

Previous entry: 30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 1: 1-10

Well, I got thrown off by the Jazz and Heritage Festival in New Orleans … so now I will continue my list of badass features in and around the city where I hung out prior to arriving in the Big Easy. Here are 10 more things I love about Lima (and one that I don’t) …

11. Ristorante Huaca Pucllana — Some restaurants have fountains, aquariums or lovely artwork for decór, but I bet this is the only restaurant in the world with genuine ruins from the Inca empire as a design feature. Take a date for cocktails on the terrace as you overlook the Huaca Pucllana ruins, looking lovely at night in a romantic warm glow.

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12. Miraflores — This oceanside neighborhood in Lima has upscale shopping, sleek buildings and architecture, and fine dining. Its coast-hugging roadway, Circuita de Playas, has giant, beautiful sculpture fountains on one side, and the shoreline on the other.

13. Cancha — The big fat kernels of corn that grow here are called maiz cancha chulpe and anchor the majority of Peruvian dishes, but when toasted and sprinkled with sea salt, make an excellent bar munchy or mid-afternoon/ late-night snack. You’ll find them sprinkled alongside especially juicy meals to soak up the liquids, but I like them best when served plain and with a cold beer.

14. Hot Men — They live here and visit here.

15. Beaches — Lima is spread out along a scenic stretch of Pacific coastline, and within the city limits are beaches where surfers, sailors, parasailers, and sun worshippers flock. To the south and north of Lima are fun beach towns of all stripes, many of them quite posh. Whether you want to wear flip-flops or Jimmy Choos to dinner, you can find your ideal beach.

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16. Good shopping — Lima has all the imported clothes, perfumes, electronics and other goodies you’d find in any sophisticated world city, plus handcrafted Andean gifts made with Peruvian textiles and materials that cost a fortune elsewhere. There are also traditional marketplaces to go and get get your haggle on. Lima is one of very few cities in all of South America with Apple computer repair and maintenance (I type as I give Buenos Aires the side-eye).

17. Parks and greenery — Sure, lots of cities have parks, and I rank Lima up there with the likes of London and New York for its many well-groomed, well-maintained, well-lit public green spaces. They have outdoor workout stations, amphitheaters and stages, sculptures, fountains, and gardens. I loved Parque Mariscal Castilla, with all the above features, in the San Isidro neighborhood.

18. Outdoor water features — I don’t know if Lima has more waterfalls, fountains and other outdoor water features than most other cities, but they seem to be everywhere, gushing generous cascades of water.

19. Hot Men — I’m not sure if I mentioned this.

20. TipTop Cafe — I can hear the collective groan from the foodies in Lima as I single out this one eatery (an American-style diner and takeout joint) but hear me out. A city can have a wealth of stellar chefs and restaurants — and Lima does — but a truly great culinary city has good cheap takeout that’s not a fast-food chain. Enter TipTop, where Peruvian and American comfort food come together in a greasy love nest of salchipapas and hamburgers and chocolate-dipped ice cream cones. AND AND AND they deliver.

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… And Three Things I Don’t (Part Two)

2. Coffee — Some of the finest coffee beans on the planet grow in the mountains of Perú and are shipped off to pretentious coffee shops the world over, but you’d never know it when you visit. The vast majority of restaurants, cafes and even coffee shops (Starbucks, I am looking at you) serve freeze-dried instant coffee. In most countries this is an affront, but in a country that produces truly great coffee, it is practically a crime.

30 Things I Love About Lima (And 3 Things I Don’t), Part 1: 1-10

April 20th, 2012

1. Amazing Culinary Scene. Perú’s capital city is a booming gastronomic hub with fabulous eateries of all genres. A variety of fresh ripe seasonal ingredients — from nearby jungles, forests, mountains, waterways, and ocean — are used in creative, classic, and clever ways. From cafés serving “peasant food” (comida de campesinos) to Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s possible to get a memorable meal in Lima no matter how many soles you have in your pocket.

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2. Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas). Lima’s majestic main plaza boasts the Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral of Lima and Archbishop’s Palace, and stately Spanish Colonial buildings housing museums and municipal buildings. Chill on one of about 50 marble benches scattered around the lush fountains, statues, flower beds and lawns.
3. Good-Looking Guys.This is self-explanatory.
4. Pisco Cocktails. Perú’s signature liquor is Pisco, a strong brandy of muscat grapes. The national cocktail is the Pisco Sour, made from limes, beaten egg whites, simple syrup, and bitters (and invented, curiously, by a gringo). As good as a Pisco Sour is, don’t hesitate to try Pisco in other boozily effective forms, such as Pisco and sweet-tart maracuyá juice, chilcano de Pisco (Pisco with ginger ale and lime juice, both shown below), or the innocently lethal Pisco Punch.

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5. The Pisco Sour Trifecta. On that note, cocktail aficionados will want to visit a threesome of bars said to serve the best Pisco Sours in Lima. Go to the swank Hotels Bolivar, Maury, and Country Club Lima to taste the difference between a good Pisco Sour and a great one.
6. Dudo, or “Peruvian Liar Dice,” is a drinking game said to have been invented by the Inca and taught to Spanish conquistadors when they arrived. I have to doubt that, because if so, the Spanish would have been way too wasted to conquer anyone. Whatever its origins, this is a game of bluffing, educated guessing, and reading other players — simple to learn, but difficult to master.
7. Sunsets. Settled as it is on the Pacific, Lima has some damned impressive puestas del sol (at least in the summer months, clear of fog). The sun sinking behind Isla San Lorenzo shoots a zillion colors across the sky and bathes the city in a dreamy glow.

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8. Se Habla Ingles. It seems most of Lima’s population can speak at least some English — not just professionals and scholars, but shop clerks, taxi drivers, and bathroom attendants too. This had a down side for me, as it became tough to improve my Spanish when everyone wanted to practice their English with me.
9. Sauces! From the tongue-blistering salsa de rocoto (hot pepper sauce) to the creamy, tangy salsa de Huancaina, to salsa Criolla (onion-chili relish) … Peruvians know how to dunk and smother their food. My favorite is aji, a popular yellow chili sauce that ranges from mildly to suicidally spicy, and could make an old running shoe taste good.

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10. Attractive Men. … You know what I’m talking about.

    … and 3 Things I Don’t (Part One)

Straight Pisco. With all the raving I just did about Pisco, it’s probably surprising to see this here, but straight-up Pisco, to me, invokes the flavors of nail polish remover with undertones of pesticide. I say this knowing full well that in the past decade Pisco has become more sophisticated, and elegant, and artisanal, and sought after, and bla, bla, blaaaa … I will happily drink Pisco mixed with something else and love it, but leave the shot glasses on the shelf please.

A Dirty Truck is a Happy Truck: Off-Road Adventures in Peru

April 13th, 2012

Here are some snaps from an excellent weekend on the central Peruvian coast with Alta Ruta 4×4, a Lima-based motorsports company that organizes 5-star off-road adventure trips and expeditions around South America.

This excursion involved about 30 badass off-road vehicles driving through the desert from Ica to Playa Barlovento — a remote, wild and gorgeous beach that really can only be accessed with a badass off-road vehicle.

The caravan gathers, and drivers get their trucks ready to abandon pavement for a few days ….

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And off we go on a bouncy, speedy ride — over sandy flats; up, down and through picturesque dunes.

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Whee! Speed limits? What are those?

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We drive about two hours until we get to Playa Barlovento.

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Here, organizers have set up the deluxe camping accommodations that characterize Alta Ruta trips. There is a main tent, outdoor bathrooms, and staffed kitchen, where we will be fed glorious meals throughout the weekend. As per Alta Ruta standards, it is all very swank.

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There is even a massage therapist on hand to work out the knots and kinks that a person can get bumping along in a badass 4×4.

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Everyone unpacks their individual tents and shelters, and gets ready for serious relaxation at a truly unspoiled beach, where there is absolutely no sign of development, and few to no other humans in sight.

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One of Alta Ruta’s sponsors, Can-Am ATV, provided a fierce little Commander 1000 for us to check out during the weekend. A spin around the sand in a zippy dune buggy, driven by a cute boy? DON’T MIND IF I DO.

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This coastal area was home to a ton of wildlife, most notably, several different species of birds …

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(this was one of my favorites, the snowy egret)

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… and here is a baby sea lion and a curious pelican who hung out at the campsite for an entire morning.

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The sunsets are nothing short of astonishing.

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We had plenty of time to jump back into the 4×4 and explore more of the coastline a bit farther south.

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If you are in South America and have a badass off-road vehicle, I urge you to jump in on an Alta Ruta 4×4 trip … it is a great way to experience natural spots that few people get to see.

If you do not have access to a badass vehicle, Alta Ruta can hook you up. For instance, you can combine a stay in this super dreamy oceanfront spa resort, Hotel Paracas, with an Alta Ruta excursion. Both the hotel and Alta Ruta staff (like so many people in and around Lima) are very proficient in English.

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Here is the Alta Ruta 4×4 site translated into English. Besides organizing off-road excursions, the company provides four-wheel-driving and safety classes, and is a race team in the world-famous Dakar Rally, which begins in Lima next year.

… and here is their Facebook photo album of the trip.

¡ARRIBA!

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Dirty trucks are the best.

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