Posts Tagged ‘Travels’

Argentina: Puerto Madryn & Peninsula Valdés

April 4th, 2011

Though I’m still in Mexico, I thought I’d break away from the Mexican postings for a trip a bit farther down south, to Patagonia Argentina. These are notes I took during a trip there a couple of years ago.

Day One: Puerto Madryn arrival

I can’t remember having been this enchanted by a place in so long a time. Puerto Madryn has a GORGEOUS shoreline; dark gold sand, laid-back atmosphere. Tonight a silver full moon hangs heavy in a starry sky with las Tres Marias brilliant among all the other constellations. Dogs run obedient in the streets. I am sitting in a bar that’s blasting obscure old Janis Joplin tunes and nibbling on a kick-ass cheese and meats plate (tabla con quesos y carnes). The mojitos are strong and made from real mint, entire plants of it in one drink. They have an old cabinet above the bar, mounted with a forward tilt like an important painting, but displaying old booze bottles ensconced on its shelves.

Here are some snaps I took today of Puerto Madryn’s shoreline:

Day Two — Peninsula Valdés (Valdes Peninsula for the gringos)

I spent most of the day in Peninsula Valdés, a nature preserve/ UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s almost an island, connected to Chubut Province by a slim isthmus. I was scheduled to be picked up at 8:15. I awoke not really knowing what time it was because my cell-phone time was wrong, and I’d slept through my wake-up call too. Turns out I got out of bed at 8 a.m.; I hustled downstairs in the nick of time to meet the tour guide, Federico. In the back seat of his red square van were Mark and Thea, an English couple embarking on one of those massive post-university world tours that Brits do so well: first they’d been to Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, then to Australia and New Zealand. Now they’re on the Americas leg. Lucky.

It was gray and cloudy and we drove toward Peninsula Valdés; I was groggy, and I asked Federico in my bad Spanish if we could grab a coffee somewhere before getting to the peninsula. His response: “You are not in Buenos Aires – this is Patagonia. There are not cafes here – there is not even a gas station where we can stop!” He did say there were coffee machines at the eco-center on the isthmus leading to the peninsula. On the way we passed dry dusty landscapes, sand, and scrubby grasses and short bushes, very flat and in all the desert colors. Animals: South American ostrich (not rhea – he did call it that, but there was a more specific name he was using), llamas who traveled in packs and looked like much bigger deer – very lithe and jumping like deer over the occasional estancia fence; a “peludo” armadillo; gray speckled birds that he said were akin to partridges; “Patagonia hares” — although they are not hares, but tailless rodents with short stumpy heads in the mouse family that walk almost like little dogs, with a little hop. Lots of woolly sheep that produce merino wool. It was at this point of the trip that I realized I had forgotten to charge my camera battery, that it was completely dead, and I would not be taking any pictures today.

We got to the eco-center at Ameghino Isthmus, the entrance to Peninsula Valdés. The center was set up like a little museum, with a big whale skeleton that had been discovered on the peninsula — the space open and airy, well kept, clean and beautiful. They had a soda machine, and three little espresso machines that turned out to be fabulous. It was early and I was still a little hungover from the night before. A cute guy helped me deal with the coffee machines; he didn’t speak any English, and was from around there somewhere.

I went into the bathroom — a surprisingly nice tiled bathroom, a lot like the museum itself in décor. I told Thea it was like peeing in a museum display. Out the window of one of the stalls was the nicest view of the steppe I’d seen thus far: lots of pinks and yellows and beiges and greens in the desert coloring. I went back out and we three passengers climbed a little observation tower to see the thinnest part of this peninsula, with water on both sides.

I got back into the “Pat the Postman” red van, as British Thea was calling it, and we set off toward Punte Norte. Now we were on a rock road and all the stones bounced up clattering against the van, and would for the next six hours. We passed lots of Patagonian scrub-desert and all the animals. All of the peninsula, pretty much, was divided into estaciones – Fernando said each merino-wool sheep took up a lot of land to sustain. The peninsula has salt flats, “Salinas Chica” and “Salinas Grande.” There were very few structures on the land that I could see. One of the nicer estaciones, at the beginning of the peninsula, belonged to an owner of the Buenos Aires Boca Juniors footy team.

Though it threatened to rain all day, it only started coming down in the afternoon. We saw ostriches drinking fresh water from the puddles in the street; Federico said lots of animals survived on the saline water that comes up from the earth there, but could that really be true? I mean, some of those estaciones had horses, but I knew some of the buildings out here, like the eco-center, had fresh water pumped in from Puerto Madryn. That must be how the horses survived.

We saw sea lions on the shore; no whales or penguins because the season was over, but sea lions are apparently breeding and Peninsula Valdés is a big breeding ground. The water was deep green-gray and very cool looking. Back in the van and down the coastline, stopping at another point to see more sea lions. A little orange-and-white cat came running out of the guardhouse toward us; he stayed with us during our entire sightseeing trek and then tried to jump in the van after us when we left. I hoped he had a home. He probably does, with the groundskeeper – just not a lot of attention.

We stopped for lunch. Thea and Mark had been traveling since January and they’re on a strict 100-peso-per day budget – I bought them pizza over their severe protests, but I was all “I didn’t spend any money today” and said I had gotten on the tour for free … I didn’t want to be all “I can afford it, mofos!” even though they probably have just as much money as I do — they just spend it more wisely.

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Playa Zipolite: A Fabulous Beach Paradise for Nudists and Other People

March 24th, 2011

Playa Zipolite is a tiny lazy beach town, off the beaten path, with enough cafés, convenience stores, restaurants, bars, and lodging to be hospitable to travelers. It is also Mexico’s only officially sanctioned nude beach, though I hadn’t heard that in advance (and didn’t even really notice it until I had been on the beach for a couple of hours). One doesn’t stumble across Zipolite; one has to intend to get there. I had heard some good things about Zipolite from a guy I’d met in Puerto Escondido, and after making a day trip to check it out, decided to come back and set up camp for a little while.

The vibe of the town is both very local and very international bohemian. No one wears anything more complicated than sarongs, swimsuits and shorts (if they’re wearing anything at all); in fact, it’s almost a hassle to put flip-flops on. The nude beach aspect is very secondary to the character of the town. Only about 10 to 20 percent of the people on the beach are fully nude; there are topless women as well. So, whatever you care to wear or not wear is fine with everyone. Most services are available (internet, laundry) but there are no ATMs here … that is a short colectivo or taxi ride to neighboring Puerto Angel.

The nearby rehab center and school for the disabled, Piña Palmera, is a big part of the town, and you see more than the average number of people on wheelchairs. In fact, I am sitting at a waterfront cafe watching a guy who arrived at the beach in a wheelchair with boogie board in tow …he’s out there now boogie boarding with a surfer buddy of his.

Zipolite has a number of ex-pats … the woman who turned me on to my hotel, for instance, is from California and runs a great café. I think the people who own the local cinema are also ex-pats. I heard you can smoke a joint there while watching a movie (from someone who would definitely know) but can’t confirm that firsthand. But, it’s mostly a local town. English is spoken here … quite well by the high-end resorts, like Nude, and many locals have some knowledge of English. However, a few Spanish words and phrases will get you far in the locals’ estimation.

It’s my third day here, and I like it enough that I just paid for Internet access for a month, which is how I am able to update this blog from a lovely vantage point on the sand. All the beach chairs and hammocks along the waterline are so inviting at any time of the day or early evening, and I have to force myself now to sit at a table … it’s hard to be productive in paradise.

Here is a quick video I made in which I discover Playa Zipolite, gawk at frisbee-playing dudes and realize that HEY Zipolite is a nude beach:

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To get to Zipolite from Puerto Escondido (all prices mentioned are as of March 2011) :

Take either a local bus (drop-off is the triangular bus stop diagonally across from the ADO bus station in downtown Puerto Escondido) or a luxury bus (at the ADO station). Local was 23 pesos and I didn’t bother looking into luxury prices because the local buses are fine. You could also rent a private taxi, though I didn’t look into that either. Ask the bus driver to alert you when you get to the Zipolite drop-off.

The drop-off is at a corner of the highway with an OXXO convenience store. Across the street from OXXO is a stand for private taxis, which will charge from 70-120 pesos to get to Zipolite, depending on how good your negotiating skills are. About a hundred paces down the road, at the rear of the convenience store, is the stop for a colectivo, a covered pickup truck/ public bus that charges 10 pesos to get to Zipolite, the last stop on the route. It is about a 20-30 minute ride.

If you take a colectivo, you will be dropped off in front of the Piña Palmera rehab center and school for the disabled. It is a five-minute walk down this street to the beach and town center.

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Puerto Escondido: El Bueno, El Malo y El Feo

March 6th, 2011

El Bueno

Here are my feet enjoying the sun, sand and surf at Playa Coral in Puerto Escondido (the rest of me kinda dug it, too). On an absolutely stellar Saturday, this beach was nearly deserted. I was imagining beaches in the States on a day like this — they’d be packed — and I felt so privileged to have this killer beach practically to myself.



Here are two of the resident watch cats of my guesthouse, Hotel Tower Bridge, on the deck outside my room, keeping a vigilant eye out for creepy crawlies.

Well, maybe not so vigilant. Even highly trained Mexican asesino watch kitties need some shut-eye.

El Malo

The ocean here is beautiful but dangerous, with a deadly strong undertow and razor-sharp rocks at the western end of the beach. In the non-rocky area I didn’t dare go in the water past my waist, and even then was pulled around a bit more than I prefer.



I don’t know what happened to this poor guy, but he was magnificent. About 18 inches long, thicker than a football, his scales and fins the most vivid shades of blue, silver, green and purple. He had washed up on the shore, but got sucked back in by the powerful surf just after I snapped this. I wish I could have seen him through a scuba mask, swimming and doing his thing.

El Feo

Walking back to my guesthouse on my way back from dinner tonight (carne asada, which fits into the “bueno” category), I came across two girls, about 9 and 11, looking at a dark critter scurrying along the side of the road. It was the diameter of a baseball and I asked them, is it a frog? Es sapo? “No,” the older girl replied, casually smacking it with her rubber sandal, “es tarantula.” Which is absolutely the last thing on earth I want to encounter, ever … I have awakened to a tree rat scurrying across my forehead in Laos; I had a 5-foot boa constrictor enter my yard in the Philippines; I have crossed paths with a big monitor lizard in Kenya, and I would choose any or all of these over a huge furry tarantula. After I took a picture of the now-dead thing, the rest of my walk in the dark became agonizing … every shadow or fallen leaf was a tarantula, plotting to run up my exposed feet and legs. I got back to the guesthouse and told a few people there about the girls and the eight-legged beast. Their reaction: “Oh, why did they have to kill it? Why couldn’t they just let it live?” Sigh. International hippies … I love animals, and I know logically that tarantulas are relatively harmless, but to me the only reasonable response to seeing a tarantula is to murder it immediately. I hope the resident watch cats share my views.

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Canada – North Vancouver: Capilano Suspension Bridge

December 10th, 2010

While visiting British Columbia last month, I had the chance to check out the stunning Capilano Suspension Bridge in North Vancouver. The bridge is a simple 136-m. suspension bridge dangling over the rushing Capilano River, 70 meters below. It was originally built in 1889 by wealthy landowners wanting access to the miles and miles of pristine, forested mountains that lay on the other side of the steep Capilano River gorge. Originally built from hemp and cedar, the bridge was rebuilt with steel cables. It has retained its original simple construction.

The area around the bridge has become a cultural center devoted to the aboriginal people of British Columbia, and the early pioneers who settled there and made the first modern efforts to live and work in those rugged, majestic and humbling environs.

Here are some snaps taken from an autumn 2010 visit to one of British Columbia’s most popular tourist attractions:

Photogenic Montréal

December 5th, 2010

Here is a photo tour from a recent trip to the fabulous Montréal, Québec! Wish I could have stayed longer … I’ll definitely be back.

San Francisco Snapshots

November 30th, 2010

Here are some snaps of my favorite things about San Francisco. On a cold, gray and rainy day in New York, it’s easy to catch oneself California dreamin’.

Canada – Vancouver: Waterfront

November 14th, 2010

I had the good fortune to land in Vancouver, BC on a sunny fall afternoon. The circling plane gave me a panoramic view of shining buildings jutting out into a vivid blue ocean, nestled among surrounding white-peaked mountains that dwarfed all else. Dramatic billowing clouds shot through an impossibly blue sky.  This part of Canada is known as “Sea to Sky country” and this birds’-eye look at it showed why.

As we traveled downward, the endless vista of  blue, white, and silver gave way to a riot of autumnal colors. Vancouver blends nature beautifully with urban culture — a lovely, clean, modern, progressive and eminently livable city. There are several cool neighborhoods in Vancouver but one of the most photogenic is the downtown waterfront. Here are some snaps I took a few days into my visit.

Congo: Gorillas!

July 27th, 2010

Here are some photos taken while gorilla trekking in the Democratic Republic of Congo, July 2010.

I went on this expedition with the rangers of the Virunga National Park. Here is my blog entry for this day, “Close Encounters with Mountain Gorillas.” Here are video clips I took while gorilla trekking.

For permission to reprint images without watermark, please contact me at eileenploh@gmail.com.

Thanks and enjoy!

Kenya: Medical Free Clinic, Day 1

July 18th, 2010

The morning of the first day of the clinic, and we hadn’t even set it up. We arrived around 7 a.m. — we were supposed to open at 8 — and already at least 100 people had lined up outside the hospital waiting for us.

We’d been told more than once that “in Africa there is no hurry” and today this was maddeningly true … keys had to arrive, meetings had to be held, organizers had to walk through the clinic building and figure out what rooms should be used for what purpose. The rest of us sat outside on benches, in a small shaded area with benches in front of the clinic building, and busied ourselves preparing intake forms and other administrative stuff. I wrote signs in both Swahili and English for the various clinic functions: Admissions, Clinic, Pharmacy, Nutrition/ORT (Oral Rehydration Therapy). Massive suitcases containing donated medications, syringes and first-aid supplies sat unopened. More and more people kept arriving, and it was past 10 by now and the patients were growing less patient by the minute. Finally we got word that we could move into the clinic building.

We began dragging the suitcases indoors. Before we could get them all inside, though, some of the patients waiting in line saw us making the move and a few of them hustled up to the benches we were vacating. This triggered a mad stampede of people running en masse, to claim these valuable spots closest to the door. Some of our staff were afraid they’d be trampled, and really it was a legitimate fear. Lots of needy people, plus foreigners showing up with free health care and drugs, can easily become a recipe for disaster. Lesson number one for this fledgling medical camp: crowd control, right off the bat.

Inside, I stood with a couple other volunteers in the pharmacy room and we unpacked the medications. The shelves filled up with antibiotics, antimalarials, antihistamines, antifungals, dewormers, acetaminophen, ibuprofen, paracetamol, vitamins and lots more. The three Kenyan doctors we’d recruited, plus Casey and the handful of local nurses we’d hired, had begun seeing patients. People started trickling in, handing us their prescriptions even before we’d gotten everything unpacked. Ready or not, we were open for business.

At one point I looked out the pharmacy door and saw Casey in the hall with the old man we’d seen yesterday in the village, the one with the mass on his leg. They were sitting on a bench with a cardiologist named Kenneth, who had flown in from Nairobi to donate his time. It was good to know that at least the man would see a doctor and get that giant lump removed and biopsied, a chance he probably wouldn’t have had without our clinic. Turns out that Casey’s mud-hut diagnosis was spot on; I hoped the guy had just the bone infection, and not cancer. He’d have to wait several days for his biopsy results to come back from Nairobi. At least he’d have an answer. That had to be better than nothing.

As soon as we’d emptied the last suitcase, I beat it out of there to let the local pharmacist and one volunteer get started on the incoming flow of prescriptions. It was about 2 p.m., and after a quick and unsatisfying ham sandwich, was time for me to help with the outreach part of the clinic: going to schools for deworming.

I walked with Rennatus, Serena, Laura, and Ferdinand to a nearby public school. We had a big bottle of deworming pills with us, enough for the thousand or so kids from first through eighth grade. Each child had to take a tablet to kill internal parasites, and most of these kids surely harbored at least one of the main types of parasites so common in the area: schistosomes, helminths, pinworms, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms and more.

The school was a series of frankly dirty cement rooms in the middle of well-trimmed and lush grounds, a battered Kenyan flag flapping on a pole. We went first to the office of the headmaster to introduce ourselves. Rennatus had sent word of our mission through a teacher, but the headmaster hadn’t gotten the message, or maybe he had forgotten. Either way, he seemed glad to see us, and agreed to set up a couple of tables outside for us with pitchers of water and communal cups; yes, communal cups. Not the most hygienic of situations by a long shot, but 1000 disposable Dixie cups were rather out of the question here.

The teachers let their students out of the classrooms grade by grade, and they ran over to our tables, yelling and shouting, a manic sea of faded and well-worn blue uniforms. Most of them had spotted us out the window, and they reacted to us in much the same way the kids in the village had. It took all the teachers’ efforts to get them lined up in some semblance of order so they wouldn’t mob us.

All we had to do was stand there with surgical gloves on (for sanitary purposes, though that seemed rather moot, what with 1000 of them sharing six cups) and dole out the pills, child by child. Three seventh-grade girls appointed themselves my water helpers, taking turns filling the communal cups and giving them to each kid who received a pill. I greeted every kid in line with some basic Swahili phrases I’d memorized: hello, how are you?, what’s your name? and, after they swallowed the rather large and bitter pill: good job!

The whole situation seemed surreal to me. Not just the rockstar treatment that came our way, but the fact that none of their parents knew we’d be here today, medicating their children. We’d been told the deworming pills had no ill effects; that this type of treatment was necessary and potentially lifesaving in this area; that infected kids would pass the dead parasites over the next couple days; that nothing adverse would happen to kids with no parasites.

But I still felt as though we were committing a fundamental wrong. In the U.S., and many other cultures, it would not be okay at all for strangers to show up and dispense pills to an entire student body without parental consent, no matter how well-intentioned. The headmaster and teachers acted like it was just fine, though, and I had to remind myself that I was working within their culture and not the other way around. I tried to see the situation through the children’s eyes: lining up in the schoolyard so the mzungu lady in rubber gloves can hand you a pill to swallow. That had to be surreal for them, too.

By the time we got back to the clinic, crowd control was under way, in the form of a lottery system and a larger-than-life local volunteer named Mishat with an affable personality and booming James Earl Jones voice. Everyone had received a numbered ticket, and Mishat passed through the crowd, identifying those who needed to be seen right away and arranging for their number to be called next. It took another hour for the day’s patients to move through the system, and we headed home at around 6 p.m. Dark was falling and the rest of the staff looked as tired and worn out as I felt. As we walked down the main dirt road of Port Victoria, I saw a bright and colorful spot bouncing in the air: the kids from yesterday, still playing with the beach ball we’d brought. Next year, I thought: 1000 beach balls. At least.

A Little Theft, A Whole Lotta Bumpy Road

July 10th, 2010

After our grueling jungle trek, Dani and Serena and I decided we deserved a day at the Hotel Serena for poolside piñas, and we’d begin the journey to Kenya refreshed and rejuvenated that night. Our sense of relaxation came to an abrupt end not long after we left the hotel, when Dani had her backpack stolen from the bed of the pickup truck in which we’d been riding. Dani wisely had all her valuables in the daypack she kept on her, so there was nothing of worth to the street kids who had run alongside the truck and lifted her bag. Size zero female clothing, miniature high heels and Caucasian-complexion makeup didn’t interest them, so with the help of a friendly local businessman, Dani miraculously got her bag back the next morning. Just about everything was intact (albeit smelly and dirty). We chalked it up to a valuable travel lesson we needed; we’d been too complacent, had ignored the gut instincts that told us putting our bags in back wasn’t a good idea.

And now we had to double-time it to Kenya, busing it from Gisenyi to Kigali to Kampala to Kisumu. More than 24 hours and two border crossings later we arrived at the guesthouse in Kisumu where our friend Casey, and other volunteers with the medical project he’d organized, had gathered.

Casey, a med student at Tulane, was there with fellow project planners and volunteers from the U.S. They’d been organizing this free clinic for about a year, and had brought thousands of dollars’ worth of donated medications and supplies to set up in a local hospital in rural Port Victoria, on the Ugandan border. It was the home town of one of the organizers, Rennatus, a public health officer now living in Atlanta. Of the three of us latecomers, Dani was the only one with health skills to lend to the project (she’s a nutritionist). But as we’d learned in previous volunteer stints abroad, anyone willing to help can and will be put to work.

We took much-needed showers and met up with the other volunteers at a small lakeside restaurant for dinner (grilled tilapia eaten, per custom, without utensils) and Tusker beers. Then it was on to the Hotel Imperial bar to watch Ghana vs. Uruguay in the World Cup. Ghana, the only African team left in the tournament, had the rabid support of everyone in town and so we all cheered for them too: me and Serena and Dani and Casey, and the others: Megan, Stephanie, Laura (all Americans) and Rennatus, Mike, and Merugi (Kenyan-Americans). Ghana lost in a heartbreak ending just as both Casey and Laura started feeling the first rumblings of travel illness (blamed on some street-vendor samosas eaten that morning). The day was definitely over.

By 3 o’clock the next afternoon, when we met at the bus station for our trip west to Port Victoria, the worst of Casey and Laura’s puking was over, though they still felt pretty lousy. I felt bad for them, first on a jostling and hot 2-hour bus ride, then crammed into a matatu (mini-bus) for another two hours. It was definitely a Developing Country Travel Experience, with 22 passengers packed into 10 designated seats, more people clinging to the outside of the vehicle, and all the associated smells and sights and sounds that come with it. My iPod kept me sane as I pressed against the window and thanked the travel gods that at least this road was (by Kenyan standards) relatively smooth. A million stars and a big meal greeted us when we arrived in Port Victoria, and then we distributed ourselves into the three resident houses where we’d be spending the next five days.